Still Water Trout Fishing Tips

stillwater fishing tips


Here is the brief of Stillwater trout fishing guides for learners. The stocked still waters are ideal places for any newcomer to a prelude of fly fishing and the springtime is considered as the best time to fish. The venue and timings are perfect so let's just dive into the brief guide.


We have made portions for my top 6 tips into the location, equipment, and fly choice. These are my main tips for the amateurs or even for those who want to come back after a long break from mid.


Fly Rods

The most important factor you have to decide is the choice of the fly rod. There are your internal struggles for the expense, but this is the first time damage till finding the good rod. A wrong choice of the rod can make your trip worst with the worst damage.


The most popular fly wand for Stillwater fishing for trout is weighted nine foot 6 inches. You should consider this rod as your first because this should consider. Many skilled professionals told us that a nine-foot 5 weighed the best for the starting ones, but some of them fishers quickly changed to the six weight when the wind grabs up.


The casting is larger of nine-foot six weighted. Wind resistant flies and streamer habits into the winds, but also can present small dries to finicky trout. This uniqueness alone can make the nine-foot six-weight the right choice.



The reel you drop in the pole is doing several jobs while you're up to the catch of the day. It also relies on the Stillwater you're fumbling and the air of trout you're expecting. Essentially, though, the reel stores fly line and backing. When assembling to cast, you drop down the amount of fly line off the reel you want to catch a fish with.


The reel stores the rest until you want to either pull more line off or have a back on. There is a variety of reels with different coverings, size ranges, shapes, drags, handles and knobs. The thing to be remembered is that the reel stand hold your line until either predator or prey decides to take it off. But only you the predator decides to put it back on.


In Duck Lake, in Montana's Glacier National Park during a very recent trip, it's known for the huge rainbow trout. We are helping beginners to spot the trout nearest to the bank. While trying to catch one of these monsters, she played right. The fish seized and headed over to the middle of the lake. The reel was spring and pawl, and the fly fishers had no further knowledge palming the reels.


We were trying to teach someone a calming trick when we saw a seven-pound Montana rainbow coming to Idaho, which was not easy. She makes the fish land, but until the trout was a couple of turns from taking all her backing. In very short order, a disc and drag would have been better in this position. 


If you have a plan to fish in the still water and you accept a big trout there. Although the Montana or labrador or Maine, a disc drag reel will have you to handle all these. Reel selection is, most of the time, a personal and subjective venture. You have to pick the size reel that fits your rod well and that gives you a sort of balance. The style is what you preferred.


Fly lines

In Stillwater fly fishing, the right fly line is the most important choice of tackle. It covers many different fishing depths, from the surface down to the 20 feet. The fly line is your only way to get the fly to where the trout exist. You will need at least two lines to fulfil this in greatly still water fishing applications. A floating line and a sinking line is important.


Floating line


Casting trout conjures up the thoughts of silent dusks, on mirror-calm still waters dimpled with rings as trout slurp emerging mayflies for many still water anglers.

There is nothing more rewarding as casting to an upward trout, seeing it slowly rise to your fly with a wide-open mouth, after that lifting to your rod to meet with the opposition of his heavy state.


In a situation like these, a better floating streak will make your fishing experience very much speaking and rewarding. There are many tapers and colours available in the ranger of floating line.


A common weight forward taper in a high sight of colour, like yellow, that is the most common and the one we also recommend. The floating lines are useful for dry flies, emergers, periodically streamers in the start of springs and late fall where the fishes are feeding close to shore or near the water level.


Sinking Lines

Many of the Stillwater fishermen, retrieving a fly on choppy days over trout that stays and eats in the deep surface of the sea is all to focus. To be very honest, you can not fish productively in 90% of still water circumstance without a sinking line. Most of the trout ratings take place in the subsurface (possibly as much as 90%), Making the dip line and /or flies fished below the level productive in most fishing experience.


The experience of an incidental yank as a trout inhales the fly that swings off the surface to simulate the emergence of a mayfly about you surface.and the head shake of an unknown fish after the hook set is what the still water angling all about in these type of environments like floating lines that comes with most tapers. The colour ranges are very restricted to the materials that use to make them sink.


The tungsten is the most used in the making of the full painting lines, and the raw form of tungsten makes a dark greyish powder while the line colours are from dark green to black. The darker colour you get when the fast sink rate of the line you're using. The still waters are flat smooth during sunset hatches are only a limited rare, lucky and precious evenings in a season spare. A sinking line helps a fisherman a lot and becomes a best friend on the still water fly fishing.


Simply Nymphs, emergers, and streamers, that copy baitfish and crayfish as well as attract the pattern are best fished in the sinking line. We might fish for full sinking line four to one over floating lines. We suggest you use a full sinking line in class 3(sink rate is two to three inches per second) or a class 5 ( link rate of five to six inches per seconds. I have a choice only, and we had class 5.


This class reaches to the bottom more quickly than other full sinking lines. Make sure that any full sinking cables you buy are relying on density. This means that the lines are prepared to sink at the same speed throughout its taper, so it has from becoming a belly at sinking.


Speciality lines

Speciality lines are among sink tip lines and, clear monochrome slime lines. Moderate drinking lines all can comes to use in different situations. All of the speciality lines available this time; the one we mostly use is the Orvis Depth charge fly line. It has the 30-foot long extra-fast sinking head linked to the made-up with the middle coating. It sinks like the heaviest and go deeper in fast.


The middle line goes there head down more effortlessly than a floating running line. We would suggest substituting the Depth charge line in place of my full sinking line. It is a more convenient tool for fishing in deeper water. Depth charge is not considered as line weight but from grain weight. We recommend you to use 200-grain depth charge for five weight rods 250 grains for six weighted rods.


The only different line we suggest for using the fishing subsurface blue flash damsel larva or streamers close to the surface of the water is the intermediate line. This is made from a single strand monochrome with a transparent PVC coating.and completely clear. It sinks very slowly and leaving the no wake as you retrieve it.


It is a very good line for starting from a spooky fish along a shore where you'll be concerned about the lining of the fish. What means by the lining of a fish is spooking fish by casting the line over the fish proximity. If it's visible to fish the shadow or the splash of the lines as it hits the water, it will be taking a cover.


A clear and middle line is narrow in diameter, makes a very small shadow and is very clear not opaque. We love to uses this clear middle line if we are casting the streamers close to the shore or surface, as it makes more chances of making me a fish and is between me and my diawl bach fly during the retrieve.



Leaders are available in many of the length, tapers, and diameters also knotless and knotted form. If we have to suggest you the most appropriate leader, I would suggest a nine-foot tapered leader in a 4X or 5X diameter would be my selection. Many companies produced tapers but not doing a good tapered job. Make your surety to use the leader that is a tape with a good company and worked with designs.


We suspicion that no one is more efficient in a taper as Orvis has. Our knotless leaders are extruded through a machine to give them perfect taper for turnover and presentation. They are then settled with heat and friction so that the breaking strength increases more as you move from the thin tippet that is glued to your flight to the thick stub that joint the fly line to the leader.


A knotted leader is made up of various levels of the section in line. Making a start with heavy materials at the stubs and finishing to the thin tippet. A knotted leader could have as many as eight or more than that knots from starting to the end. There are many faults in knotted leaders.  They are more likely to have breakage. They snag small pieces of grass or debris, leaving a wake when retrieved. 

Now you will start cleaning this all than fishing. And the attached debris making the chance off fishing reduced. There is no reason to utilise anything than knotless leaders for your Stillwater fly fishing.


The most common material used for the leader material is nylon. The breaking strength, resistance, elongation, colour or tenacity of leaders will be changing by the alteration of formula. At Orvis, we select the best combo of strength, elasticity, and durability, for our super-strong formula.


Our bung method

The bung method is the most popular and cats whisker for beginners.  It is the most effective practice for still water fishing, and it also gives you a break. It makes the fly lose in the predetermined, depth and depends on the wind static. If you want to shift from coarse fishing to fly fishing, it is so same as the float fishing, and you can apply the same technique of changing the depth and location until you succeed.


When fishing this technique, I would suggest you stick on the weighted blob and buzzer patterns or small lures and keep shifting the depth ranges until you reach. Remember to strike very immediately when the indicator strikes in.


Fish mobile lure patterns

During winter and into the spring, the successful fisherman usually does a slow pace fishing. This happens with squirmy wormy lure patterns too. This does create some problems with the presentation when your fly gets little movement like app worms with mobile flex floss or flies hanged up with natural furs of Klink hammer like zonker or snake flies. When you're starting, I suggest you fish a single f fly like a Cormorant. It makes casting much easier the stringer the leader, and as many experts know it grabs more fishes that a team of flies in many places.



These are some tips and tricks you need to learn from still water trout flies how and when to use them. If there is any other method you like to share, it would be amazing!


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